The fashion icon Edward Enninful on Modern Britain: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Compared to the Nineties.

An unexpected discovery during a tube journey in 1988 changed forever the trajectory of a young Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the city's electric 1990s artistic milieu, progressing from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of the publication i-D.

"It was the zenith of the YBA movement – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I understood we’d be kindred spirits. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I long for that rawness."

If Enninful sounds sentimental, he is far from alone. Lately, a longing look back of the 1990s has become pervasive. But in the intervening decades, Enninful believes a profound shift. "I believe, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he observes. "It’s not even this country – it’s everywhere."

A Cultural Backslide

This shift is increasingly evident: the resurgence of far-right politics, the pushback against social awareness, and the return of Eurocentric beauty standards. Where once there was the optimism of the previous decade, currently a more divisive political figure looms as a potential leader. Even, the Union Jack, once an symbol of cultural optimism, has returned as a polarising symbol.

According to Enninful, the response has consistently been to promote culture in all its variety. This was the driving force behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, including a broad spectrum of prominent faces from politics.

"Those in a position of influence should use it," he says, discussing those editorial decisions. "People often debate about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain hadn't been a open country, if it did not offer my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I cherished. I hope this period will end."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He draws solace in the youth of today: "They’re much more aware than we were. They discuss systemic issues – I didn't even know what that was."

His formative years would define a trailblazing career built on fearlessness and representation. Enninful made history as the first male, first black man, first openly gay person, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His time featured landmark covers showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, older individuals, and individuals from varied communities. Importantly, sales increased.

"Ignoring huge sections of the population, it’s more than that you’re excluding people – it’s bad for business," he states.

A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'

He has recently launched his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his premier initiative since departing his previous role. He says he wants to continue being a "innovator".

"My nature is to challenge the conventional wisdom. I was born and raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the physicians, the lawyers, the president. Then we came to England, with nothing, and I found myself on the margins. I was very shy. My teachers declared I’d have no future. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the suspicion laws … all that gave me a dual identity both an insider and outsider."

Contrary to the popular image of industry figures as loud and highly strung, Enninful is calm and radiates serenity. His journey has included its share of adversity, including openly discussed struggles with mental health and addiction.

He has also endured significant health issues, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, resulting in impaired eyesight. "I endured such a dark place for two years, away from work, fearing I was going to go blind. It’s similar to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I prayed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to limit myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."

A Foray into Curation

This drive to fit into a box has propelled him outside the realm that established him. He is now putting together a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a host of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to explore the decade's artistic collaboration – and highlight those who weren't given a spotlight at the time.

"The establishment didn't always promote the most relevant talents because they did not have the right pedigree," he observes.

This project itself uses a novel approach, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "Our approach is, what can we do together? Is it an experience, a podcast? The magazine is a piece within a broader vision."

A Testament to Resilience

Today, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most powerful cultural influencers. His story, he feels, is a proof to the power of following your instincts.

What would the younger Edward make of the Edward of today? He smiles. "He would be astonished, but he’d be proud. Back then I was anti-establishment. I didn't think institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."

He pauses. "Gratitude is key. We fled, we left our homeland. I nearly lost my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have underestimated me my entire life. But I am unstoppable once I’ve set my intention to do something."