🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.